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Ok all here is my latest work. I have worked 2 hour 15 minutes each night (while I listen to the movie TRON Legacy). The base is a "swamp" base. I have 6 colours and 2 inks on the base itself. Still need to add static grass to whole squad. Model primed in "Matte" Black from Pat Catan's. Still to me is "satiny" and next coat does not apply very well, and the next colour being red, very hard to control properly (so as you will see in the next photos had to do some interesting cover-ups)
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This is the second step (well after priming the model, Base has its own steps) This coat was done with Mephiston Red. I used a medium size brush (to me that is, about the size of the metal end of a bic pen roughly) apply generously due to the undercoat and like all red I made one brush stroke. IE: from top of foot pulled brush up to knee. Red is like white, do not keep "trying" to paint it over and over to get rid of the streaks. It won't work. you must let it dry then wet blend the next layers. (or hide the streaks in a neat dry brushing way)
Here is just a simple step to show you the other colours applied prior to washing. I used Ushabi Bone for all the "White" looking details. I did not take a picture of it here, but I also did all the silver/gold items on the model (boltgun clip, light harness on his shoulder, so forth) Before washing you also want to do the "highlight" layers to your armour, I personally recommend doing this before picking out the other details. This will allow your highlighting method to be a little less time consuming. To the right this model alread has his evil suns scarlet layer applied to his armour. I dry brushed all these models, instead of using wetblending. I dry brushed the opposite direction to the way to "pulled" the mephiston red on. This will help fill in those tiny streaks that way, and use them as natural highlight ridges on his armour. Very small streaks can be useful for this effect.
Sorry for the Glare from the desk light. But all this picture is trying to show you is the 3rd layer of red (Wild Rider Red) almost orange if you will. This adds the last layer of highlights (prior to washing) I dry brushed this as well, this time since the ridges have been filled or already hit, I went 90` to the 1st to layers. So holding the model upright looking at it's face, my dry brushing here went left to right. Very little paint will only hit the very very high spots. (this step could be passed but will effect the highlight in the end)
Okay. Here is the result after the two step wash. First I use the Arax Earthshade across the whole model (this dulls the armour quite a bit, but really hits the recesses on the model great. I am liking the earthshade alot more for lighter coloured areas (white/red/grey) than Nulin Oil as that can dull it to much. Once the Earth shade is dry, I then apply Reiksland Fleshtone to the ARMOUR only. I say this as you don't want it to bleed into the recesses. This wash is tinted red, and will help pull the red Armour back out of the Earthshading you just completed. This step is by far the longest. I use a 5/0 brush here and take a decent amount of time doing each armour plate or section.
Here is the nearly finished model. Both washes have dryed, Added blue eyes, with highlight (requires a very steady hand) lights to his shoulder harness (glowing to be added later), Fist is generic Black (blodd angel normal here) will be glowing maybe (don't know yet) and note the bright armour lines. I tilted the model and the just hit the sides exposed to me with that really really bright "Red" highlight dry, looks pink/orange (forget the name will update it) but it actually pulls into the red armour nicely. Prior to this pick was the step that I did all the black parts of the model also, behind the greaves in the "joint" sections. Squad has some touch up to do, but I think all in all a good week of painting to be done. As this will be my first painted sqaud in the 15 years I have been playing (odd right!!!) I like how this squad looks right now. Squad right now has 9 hours of painting. 2.6 of which was the first model to get the colours to look how i wanted. To all you angel players out there let me know if you need any more incites into my paint scheme. This is slightly darker than codex, but they suffer more rage??? HAHA
Here is just a simple step to show you the other colours applied prior to washing. I used Ushabi Bone for all the "White" looking details. I did not take a picture of it here, but I also did all the silver/gold items on the model (boltgun clip, light harness on his shoulder, so forth) Before washing you also want to do the "highlight" layers to your armour, I personally recommend doing this before picking out the other details. This will allow your highlighting method to be a little less time consuming. To the right this model alread has his evil suns scarlet layer applied to his armour. I dry brushed all these models, instead of using wetblending. I dry brushed the opposite direction to the way to "pulled" the mephiston red on. This will help fill in those tiny streaks that way, and use them as natural highlight ridges on his armour. Very small streaks can be useful for this effect.
Sorry for the Glare from the desk light. But all this picture is trying to show you is the 3rd layer of red (Wild Rider Red) almost orange if you will. This adds the last layer of highlights (prior to washing) I dry brushed this as well, this time since the ridges have been filled or already hit, I went 90` to the 1st to layers. So holding the model upright looking at it's face, my dry brushing here went left to right. Very little paint will only hit the very very high spots. (this step could be passed but will effect the highlight in the end)
Okay. Here is the result after the two step wash. First I use the Arax Earthshade across the whole model (this dulls the armour quite a bit, but really hits the recesses on the model great. I am liking the earthshade alot more for lighter coloured areas (white/red/grey) than Nulin Oil as that can dull it to much. Once the Earth shade is dry, I then apply Reiksland Fleshtone to the ARMOUR only. I say this as you don't want it to bleed into the recesses. This wash is tinted red, and will help pull the red Armour back out of the Earthshading you just completed. This step is by far the longest. I use a 5/0 brush here and take a decent amount of time doing each armour plate or section.
Here is the nearly finished model. Both washes have dryed, Added blue eyes, with highlight (requires a very steady hand) lights to his shoulder harness (glowing to be added later), Fist is generic Black (blodd angel normal here) will be glowing maybe (don't know yet) and note the bright armour lines. I tilted the model and the just hit the sides exposed to me with that really really bright "Red" highlight dry, looks pink/orange (forget the name will update it) but it actually pulls into the red armour nicely. Prior to this pick was the step that I did all the black parts of the model also, behind the greaves in the "joint" sections. Squad has some touch up to do, but I think all in all a good week of painting to be done. As this will be my first painted sqaud in the 15 years I have been playing (odd right!!!) I like how this squad looks right now. Squad right now has 9 hours of painting. 2.6 of which was the first model to get the colours to look how i wanted. To all you angel players out there let me know if you need any more incites into my paint scheme. This is slightly darker than codex, but they suffer more rage??? HAHA
Nice step by step instruction. They look really good too.
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